Sarah T asked:
As a school project I need to make a brochure on safe houses in an earthquake zone. However, I have searched and there aren’t very many websites that provide the information. Does anybody know any tips for building houses in earthquake zones?
Thanks very much for the detailed answers Radzewicz and Adi_Berkley, they’re really helping!
just build it earthquake proof
Yeah, here’s a tip:
Don’t.
Here’s one Don’t build it on a earthquake zone.
I’ve got a good tip don’t!!!!!!!!!!!
There’s actually quite a bit of info on building for earthquakes, I’ve posted some Wiki pages below.
Earthquakes typically occur around fault zones, but every location and any location in the world will experience an earthquake at some point in time. Like the unexpected one in New Madras, Missouri.
In quake prone areas engineers have come up with numerous building proceedures and codes to help withstand and minimize shaking. Tall buildings have rooftop counterweights, multifloor buildings have reinforced floors and walls. In calif. you can’t build within 50 feet of a known fault. Landfilling must be done with lots of rock contain or prevent liquifaction of the soil.
Concrete is reinforced. Houses are attached to foundations and what’s call “shear walls” are created to transfer motion back to the foundation.
In the interior, waterheaters, exhaust stacks, bookcases and highboys are bolted to the walls and chandaliers have extra strong hangings. Gas lines have easily accessible shutoff valves.
And you never use brick in quake areas as it cracks along the mortar lines.
Read up and good luck.
search seismic retrofit
their would be lots of hold downs (bolts extending out of foundation and attached to framing.
also see “simpson” strong ties and related framing hardware
straps and other devices tying sections of house securely together. evn your sheetrock has a nailing schedule for structual integrity.
decks outside will have things like hurricane ties (simpson)
stopping vertical displacement of joists on the girder beams
Objects within buildings
Any massive or tall object should be securely fastened to that structure, through bolts, screws, or strap hinges, so that the object does not move around during an earthquake.
[edit] Securing appliances and wood stoves
Usually, appliances using natural gas are connected to the ductile iron supply pipes with a flexible corrugated tubing made from a relatively soft material, such as brass. It is important that the appliance be properly secured, or at least restrained in its maximum motion, so that it cannot extend and tear the flexible connection.
Free standing natural gas stoves — which in older homes may not be surrounded by cabinetry, but are simply set down upon the kitchen floor — require some form of restraint. If necessary to move the stove small distances for cleaning, such restraint may be provided by sturdy cables which must be attached to strong locations on both the stove and the wall of the kitchen. Stoves attached within cabinets may be a hazard if the cabinets themselves are weakly attached to the building structure.
Gas fireplace inserts, both decorative and functional, must also be restrained. Some form of restraining clip should be installed that may be easily removed when necessary.
Wood Franklin stoves and pellet stoves, often placed upon a hearth in front of a fireplace or with a separate pipe, are often quite heavy, and must be secured to a substantial member of the flooring system using fire safe methods.
Water heaters of any type, gas or electric, must be rigidly attached to the building structure, as when filled with water they are all quite heavy. When the building moves, the inertia of the water mass is sufficient to break the connecting water pipes, or to slide the bottom of the tank about, with the gas or electrical connections at risk. All water heaters should be secured in every horizontal direction and at the top and bottom with wood or metal blocking and corrosion-resistant steel straps.
talk to a builders or an architect engineers
i got my house build overseas on an earthquake zone 7 years ago since we had earthquak twice still standing good as gold had my architect drafter friend advice me he also draft my house,..did a good job,.good luck though,.
Two types of constructions may be suggested for this.
1. The building will also osculate along with earthquake shaking .
2. The re enforcing structure to with stand the lateral shaking’s.
For item no 1 we have to provide rubber padding or springs and bearings at the bottom.For second type of construction care full design of providing cross beam like X and heavy re enforcing with more iron bars will help.
Haha, how funny. I just looked up on google exactly what you wanted to know. I have to make a brochure on the exact same thing too. There are some recommendations in my school book though – Humanities Alive. If your using the same book most of the information is actually there. If not, here it is:
- Build a wooden house not a brick one.
- Lay deep concrete foundations and bolt the wooden house frame to these. Reinforce foundations with steel rods or mesh.
- Clop wall and roof frames together with metal pins.
- Rock is better to build on than sand or clay.
- Strap down your hot water system.
- Use plywood sheets to brace walls.
- Avoid using an open fireplace as chimneys can topple unless securely braced.
- Fix all roof tiles or use alternative roofing. (e.g. steel).
I hope this helps